How to Repoint Brickwork: A Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Crumbling mortar between bricks is one of those problems that’s easy to ignore until it isn’t. Once the mortar starts breaking down, water seeps in, the walls begin to deteriorate, and what could have been a straightforward fix becomes far more costly. Beyond protection, a neatly repointed wall makes a noticeable difference to a property’s appearance. Whether it’s an exposed chimney stack, a garden wall, or the side of your home, fresh pointing gives brickwork a clean, well-kept appearance. 

At RBG Roofing Ltd, we’ve been maintaining and repairing properties across the Forest of Dean for over 36 years, and in this guide, we’ll walk you through exactly how to Repoint Brickwork. Their maintenance tips and when u should call a professional.

What Is Repointing Brickwork?

Brickwork repointing is the process of removing deteriorated mortar from the joints between bricks and replacing it with a fresh mix to seal the gaps and restore the wall’s structural integrity. Over time, rain, frost, and temperature changes cause mortar to crack and crumble, allowing water to penetrate the wall and lead to damp and structural damage. Repointing targets the joints directly, extending the wall’s lifespan and preventing far more costly repairs down the line.

Repointing Brickwork Tools 

Before starting, make sure you have the following:

• Pointing trowel, for pressing and shaping mortar into joints
• Brick jointer to finish and smooth the joint profile
• Bricklaying trowel, for handling and transferring mortar
• Two buckets, one for mixing, one for rinsing tools
• Water supply, to keep the mortar at the right consistency
• Pre-mixed sand and cement, for a reliable, consistent mortar
• Soft brush or cloth for cleaning excess mortar off brick faces

Having everything to hand before you begin saves time and helps you work at a steady pace without mortar drying out mid-job.

Before you begin, it is worth knowing what the job might cost. Check out our guide to repointing costs in the UK for a better idea of what to budget.

How to Repoint Brickwork: Step by Step

Knowing how to Repoint Brickwork saves you time, money, and the trouble of watching the same problem return season after season. Follow these steps carefully for a finish that lasts

Step 1: Prepare the Wall

Start by thoroughly brushing down the entire wall surface to remove any dirt, dust, and loose debris that may have built up over time. Pay close attention to the joints themselves, as old mortar fragments and grime tend to collect there. The bricks need to be clean and reasonably dry before any work begins, as moisture trapped beneath fresh mortar can cause bonding issues later on. Once the wall is clean, take a moment to clear the surrounding area of any tools, materials, or obstructions. Having safe, unobstructed access to the full section you are working on makes the job far easier and reduces the risk of accidents.

Step 2: Remove the Old Mortar

Using a cold chisel and club hammer, carefully rake out the old mortar from the joints. For larger areas, an angle grinder with a mortar raking disc can speed up the process considerably. Regardless of the method, you need to remove the mortar to a depth of at least 15-20mm to reach solid, stable material beneath. This depth is important because shallow removal leaves the new mortar with insufficient grip, making the joints prone to cracking and failure within a short period. Work steadily and methodically across the section, checking as you go that you are reaching a consistent depth throughout.

Step 3: Take Care Around Openings

Windows and door frames require particular care during removal. The mortar in these areas experiences greater movement stress than elsewhere on the wall because frames expand and contract with temperature changes. When chiselling close to a frame or window edge, use lighter, more controlled strikes rather than heavy blows. The goal is to free the old mortar without catching the brick edges or damaging the frame itself. Any accidental chipping to the brick face at this stage will be visible in the finished result, so taking a little extra time here is always worthwhile.

Step 4: Clean the Joints

With the old mortar removed, use a stiff-bristled brush to work along every joint and dislodge any remaining dust, loose grit, and small debris. This stage is one that people are often tempted to rush through, particularly when covering a large area, but the quality of what comes next depends on it being done properly. Even a thin film of dust sitting in a joint is enough to act as a barrier between the brick and the new mortar, preventing a solid bond from forming. Go over each joint at least twice if needed, and take your time to ensure the surface is as clean as possible before moving on.

Step 5: Check the Joints Are Clear

Before mixing any mortar, run your finger or a dry brush firmly along each joint to check for remaining grit or looseness. If anything comes away, continue brushing until the joint feels solid and clean. Once you are satisfied, lightly dampen the joints using a brush and clean water. This step makes a real difference to the final result. Dry bricks are highly absorbent and will draw moisture out of the fresh mortar too quickly, causing it to cure too fast and reducing its overall strength. Damping down the surface slows that process and gives the mortar time to bond properly.

Step 6: Mix the Mortar

Add your pre-mixed sand and cement into a clean bucket, then gradually introduce water while mixing continuously. The finished consistency should be firm and workable. It needs to hold its shape when pressed into a joint without crumbling apart, but it should not be so wet that it sags, slides, or drops out under its own weight. Getting the consistency right takes a little practice, so mix a small test batch first if you are unfamiliar with the process. For properties with older or softer bricks, such as those found on many traditional homes in the Forest of Dean, a slightly weaker and more flexible mortar mix is generally the better choice, as a mix that is too strong can cause the bricks themselves to crack over time.

Step 7: Work from the Top Down

Always begin at the highest point of the wall and work your way steadily downward. The reason for this is straightforward. As you work, dust, loose particles, and small mortar drips will fall downwards. If you start at the bottom, that debris lands on freshly filled joints and contaminates them before they have a chance to set. By working from the top, everything that falls lands on sections you have not yet repointed, keeping your finished work clean and undisturbed. It also means that any minor smears or drips on the brick face below can be addressed when you reach that section.

Step 8: Fill the Vertical Joints First

Load your pointing trowel with mortar and press it firmly into the vertical joints, which are known in the trade as perpends. These are the upright joints that sit between individual bricks in each course. Push the mortar in with steady, even pressure, making sure it makes full contact with the brick face on both sides of the joint. Work your way along the section systematically, checking each joint as you go. Any voids or unfilled areas in the vertical joints will allow rainwater to penetrate directly into the wall, which defeats the purpose of repointing in the first place.

Step 9: Then Do the Horizontal Joints

Once the vertical joints across your working section are filled, move on to the horizontal bed joints that run along each course of brickwork. Press mortar into these with the same firm, even pressure as before, working from one end of the section to the other. After filling, use a brick jointer or the edge of your trowel to finish the profile of each joint. On most UK properties, the standard finish is either a slightly recessed joint or a weathered profile that slopes slightly to shed rainwater. Try to match the profile of the existing pointing elsewhere on the wall so the finished result looks consistent.

Step 10: Clear Excess Mortar

As you work through each section, keep a soft brush or damp cloth close to hand and remove any mortar smears from the brick faces as you go. Fresh mortar wipes away quickly and easily, but once it begins to harden, it becomes significantly more difficult to remove and can leave staining on the brickwork that is hard to shift. This is particularly noticeable on lighter coloured bricks, where any residue tends to show clearly. A few minutes spent cleaning up after each section is much less work than trying to clean the whole wall at the end once the mortar has dried.

Step 11: Final Check

With all the joints filled and the brick faces cleaned, take the time to walk through the entire section and inspect each joint carefully. Look for voids where mortar has not fully filled the gap, cracks that may have appeared as the mortar began to set, and uneven areas where the profile needs tidying. Make all corrections while the mortar is still in its soft, workable state. Once you are satisfied that the work is complete and consistent throughout, leave the wall completely undisturbed while the mortar cures. Avoid touching the surface, washing it down, or allowing anything to come into contact with the fresh joints for at least 24 hours.

Useful Tips for a Better Brickwork Finish

• Don’t work in wet or frosty conditions. Mortar needs a dry day above 5°C to cure correctly
• Dampen joints before applying mortar to prevent too-rapid moisture loss
• Match the mortar to the original. Using a mix that’s too hard on older soft bricks can cause cracking
• Work in manageable sections. Don’t mix more mortar than you can use in 30–45 minutes
• Start from the top, keep fresh work clean as you progress downward
• Clean as you go, excess mortar on brick faces is much easier to remove while still fresh

Common Mistakes When Repointing Brickwork

Using the wrong mortar mix

A mix that is too strong for the bricks causes cracking and spalling over time. The mortar should always be slightly weaker than the surrounding bricks to absorb movement without transferring stress into the brickwork itself.

Not removing enough old mortar

Applying new mortar over a shallow bed of old material leaves it with very little to grip. Old mortar must be removed to a depth of at least 15-20mm to ensure the new mix bonds properly and lasts.

Skipping joint cleaning

Dust and loose debris left inside the joints after removal will prevent the new mortar from bonding to the brick surface. Joints must be brushed out thoroughly and lightly dampened before any fresh mortar is applied.

Working in poor weather

Repointing in cold, frosty, or wet conditions causes the mortar to fail before it has cured. Always work on a dry day with temperatures above 5 degrees Celsius to ensure the mortar sets properly.

Getting the mortar consistency wrong

A mix that is too dry will not fill joints cleanly, while a mix that is too wet will slump and cure weakly. Add water gradually during mixing and test the consistency before applying it to the wall.

Leaving voids in the joints

Incomplete filling allows water to sit inside the joint, freeze, and expand, causing further cracking. Every joint should be packed firmly from back to front with no air pockets left behind.

Incorrect joint profile

Finishing joints flush or uneven can trap water against the brick face rather than shedding it. A slightly recessed or weathered profile is standard on UK properties and should match the existing pointing on the rest of the wall.

Smearing mortar on brick faces

Excess mortar left to dry on the brickwork is difficult to remove without causing damage. Wipe down brick faces with a soft brush or damp cloth after completing each section while the mortar is still fresh.

Repointing over active damp

Fresh pointing will not fix a wall with an underlying damp problem. Moisture will continue to break down the new mortar from behind. Any damp issues should be resolved first, and our damp proofing service can identify and treat the cause before repair work begins.

Working at height without proper equipment

Repointing chimney stacks or upper gable ends without the correct access equipment is dangerous. Elevated masonry work should always be carried out by professional roofers in Forest of Dean. Handle all high-level repointing safely.

When Should You Call a Professional?

DIY repointing is perfectly manageable on a small garden wall or low section of brickwork. However, for chimney stacks, high gable ends, or extensive areas of deterioration, professional help is the safer and more reliable option.

At RBG Roofing Ltd, our chimney repair service includes repointing chimney stacks and masonry to keep your chimney structurally sound. If your pointing has deteriorated across a larger area, or if there are signs of damp penetration, our team can assess the damage and carry out the work safely at height. 

Get in touch for a free quote.